Tips for Traveling Solo in Italy

Traveling solo has its perks. If you know, you know! I love waking up and not having to consider anyone else’s preferences in my plans for the day. If I want to stay in bed until mid-morning and do nothing, great. If I want to get up early and wander around Venice, stopping at every pasticceria between my Airbnb and Piazza San Marco, I don’t have to worry about whether someone else is having fun (or judging me. How many pastries does one woman need?!?).

I do think the pros of solo travel outweigh the cons, but we do have to be thoughtful about things that we don’t have to consider when traveling with others. There is no extra set of hands to help carry stuff. There’s no built-in dinner buddy. You will have only a few photos of yourself since you need to ask strangers to snap a pic (and they won’t understand your good angles, so good luck!).

No, no, I don’t need an extra set of hands!

Don’t Try to Do It All.

Rushing is the antithesis of life in Italy. I have learned the hard way that trying to see or do too many things in one day defeats the purpose of traveling to a place where life moves piano, piano. I think it’s important to be realistic and prioritize. I advise against jumping from city to city if you only have a week or two. You could spend two weeks in Rome alone and still feel like you have a whole list of things to do.

• If you only have a week or so, plant yourself and take day trips. Especially with the fast trains, you could stay in or near a major city and then take day trips from there. Or, choose two cities/regions and split your time evenly among them.

• Plan one maybe two activities for the day. I like to have a plan for the morning and a plan for the afternoon or sometimes leave one half of the day completely free for walking around. Assume that everything will take longer than you think—transportation, walking, meals. Don’t overbook yourself!

• Leave time for lingering. Walk around. Sit in a park or in a piazza and take life in.

Pack Wisely.

This is the tale of two packing situations. On my first trip to Italy, for six weeks, I had a 26” checked roller bag and a backpack for my laptop and toiletries. When my friend came to visit me from the States for a long weekend, I sent her back with half of my clothes and a pair of shoes. I was a few weeks into my trip and having a heavy suitcase was a stressor. I had been up and down stairs in the train stations and pulled that bag up hills to walk to my accommodations too many times. Not having the clothes I sent back meant that I had plenty of room to take home Parmesan cheese, balsamic vinegar, and other goodies, so traveling with a lightweight suitcase was short-lived. 🤦‍♀️

On trip #2, five weeks this time, I did things differently. I was determined to get my clothes and shoes in a carry-on and to use a backpack for my laptop and toiletries. I packed a foldable tote bag since I knew I would bring some goodies back and didn’t want to buy another suitcase once I was in Italy. I have no regrets! A few days into my trip, I had to walk 35 minutes from my Airbnb to the Torino train station in pouring rain because I could not get a taxi. I was wiped out by the time I got on the train, so I can only imagine how that would have been if I had more stuff.

**Tip: Use luggage storage facilities for short trips. Pack as light as you can for your getaway and, when possible, use luggage storage options at major train stations if you are going to escape to an island or smaller town for a couple of days. It’s worth $5-$10 per day to store your luggage and only take a carry-on or tote bag with you. I did this the first time I went to Venice. I was leaving Bologna and stored my 26” suitcase near the train station and took my tote with only the clothes and toiletries I would need for three days. That was one of my smartest moves of the six-week trip.

Learn a Bit of Italian.

I can’t tell you how far a little bit goes. Even though Italians are friendly, don’t assume that English is widely understood. In larger cities that’s the case, but not always. Sometimes I had cab drivers and waiters who only spoke Italian. Regardless, I don’t think it’s fair to expect Italians to speak to me in English. I am visiting their country after all. 

Learn some basics, like:

• Good morning/hello: Buongiorno/ salve

• Good evening: Buonasera

• Goodbye: Arrivederci

• Please: Per favore

• Thank you: Grazie

• Excuse me: Scusa

• Where is…: Dov'e'…?

• I don’t speak Italian well. Do you speak English? Non parlo bene l’italiano. Parla inglese?

• I would like to make a reservation.: Vorrei fare una prenotazione.

I started learning Italian with Duolingo and then switched to Pimsleur. Nothing is as helpful as being there and trying to speak it though! I truly believe that I have gotten a table at restaurants as a solo traveler and even had a more pleasant rental car experience because I could carry on a basic conversation in Italian.

🎵All by myseeeelf, don’t wanna eat all by myseeeeelf anymore🎵

Make Reservations.

If you know you want to have dinner at a set timeframe in a specific neighborhood and especially if you want a specific restaurant, don’t assume you can walk up and get a table or put your name down to wait in the moment. Make a reservation! I can’t stress this enough. I should have learned this after my first solo trip to Italy, but I’m stubborn.

I find dinnertime the most lonely and something frustrating part of the day. Nothing good happens when I’m hangry, so after a long day on my feet, wandering around trying to find a place with availability for one person, getting rejected, and then being faced with the prospect of fast-casual or not eating until very late, I sometimes reach my breaking point.

On my second trip to Italy, I reached out to Sophie Minchilli for a personalized Rome “food itinerary.” I did not have the time to research dining options ahead of my time there, so having a list of 10+ places to try was a godsend. When I raised my concerns about making a reservation for one person, she advised me to be willing to eat early—around 12:30 PM for lunch and 7:30 PM for dinner—and that worked out well. I bring my journal to dinner with me so that I have something to do instead of looking at my phone if I start to feel a bit anxious. 

Another great way to dine as a solo traveler is to book a food tour, cooking class, or other group dining experience, like these. You’ll learn something new and meet some fun people while you’re at it!

Bring an International Driver’s Permit.

Even if you don’t plan to drive while you’re in Italy, you never know if you will change your mind or if you will find yourself in a position to have to. It’s a simple process through AAA. You can go to a local AAA office or mail in your application along with two passport photos and copies of your driver’s license. For a $20 fee, you’ll receive a permit that allows you to rent a car in Italy, and it’s valid for one year from the start date of your trip. Make sure you have your regular driver’s license with you as well to rent a car. I’ve seen renters get to the desk only to find out then that they needed both. The International Driver’s Permit is not enough.

Don’t Do Everything Solo.

Being alone doesn’t mean that you have to be lonely. But you have to be intentional if you crave human interaction beyond a basic conversation in limited Italian.

Booking a tour is a great way to meet other travelers. I have met lovely people during cooking classes, bike tours, and walking tours. And, bonus, you get to interact with a local who will have great tips for you as well!

On my last trip to Italy, I signed up for NomadHer to meet other women travelers who had overlapping time in Rome. I connected with a fellow traveler and we ended up hanging out twice—we had dinner together and a few days later went on a kayaking trip outside of Rome.

Book a guided tour or hire a private guide for the places you really want to experience fully. I can’t imagine a better tour of the Colosseum than the one I took on my first trip to Italy. I don’t have a point of comparison, but that tour made me realize the value of an incredible guide—the way David made history come alive and kept my attention for hours on end is hard to describe.

On my second visit to Rome, I knew I wanted a better understanding of the Roman Forum to make sense of the beautiful ruins which, quite frankly, are hard to appreciate without context. I also wanted to visit San Clemente’s church with a guide, so I reached out to Andrada, who was the guide on a nighttime walking tour I took on my first-ever night in Rome. In three hours, we were able to visit Capitoline Hill, the Roman Forum (from outside/above), and San Clemente. It was money and time well spent!

Bike tour in Tuscany with new friends

No matter how well you plan, things will go wrong. There will be ups and downs on any trip. But with realistic expectations and a healthy dose of flexibility, I think you can have a rewarding experience traveling through Italy solo.

5 Lesser-Known Rome Attractions

The Colosseum, the Vatican, the Borghese—these are some of Rome’s most popular attractions, and I understand why. But, there are so many sites in the Eternal City that are worth exploring, and you will not be fighting crowds or waiting in seemingly endless lines for tickets. Here are some of my favorites.

Villa Farnesina

Fresco lovers, you will be in heaven! Villa Farnesina, nestled in the Trastevere neighborhood, is a captivating testament to Renaissance art and architecture. If you are walking to Trastevere from the Vatican or vice versa, or coming from Piazza Navona or Campo di Fiori across the river, build this into your itinerary and allow a couple of hours for the visit.

Built between 1506 and 1510, the villa was commissioned by the wealthy Sienese banker Agostino Chigi, who served as a banker to the Pope. If you are a fellow fresco fan, you must visit Villa Farenesina to see the works of Raphael, Sebastiano del Piombo, and Giovanni Antonio Bazzi (a.k.a. Sodoma). Particularly famous are the frescoes that depict the story of Cupid and Psyche by Raphael.

Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini (and Trajan’s Column)

I believe you cannot fully appreciate Rome until you’ve gone underground. To understand Rome you must spend some time below the modern-day streets. Le Domus Romane is one of my favorite places to go. Thanks to an immersive multimedia experience using projections, lights, and audio, the ruins come to life so that you can see how these Roman houses would have looked thousands of years ago.

The houses date back to the second century and were renovated in the 4th century, which is when the impressive floors were laid. You will discover preserved pieces of history that the excavations have uncovered like mosaics, frescoes, and the Romans’ sophisticated heating system. Thanks to projections, ancient Rome comes to life so that you can visualize how life would have been lived in these spaces.

As of July 2024, tours start every half hour at 11, with the last tour at 5:30 PM.

Twice each day, you can combine your tour of the Domus Romane with Trajan’s column.

The entrance is Foro Traiano 84, just steps off Piazza Venezia near the Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, a.k.a. the iconic Wedding Cake Building.

You’re also near the Roman Forum, Colosseum, and Capitoline Hill.

Stadium of Domitian (Stadio di Domiziono)

I have no doubt that on your visit to Rome you will stroll through Piazza Navona and admire Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain and the Church of Saint Agnes in Agony. And you will notice that the piazza is not, in fact, a square but rather an oval. That is because it was built on top of the Stadium of Domitian. Domitian was a Greek-obsessed emperor who wanted a stadium similar to the one in Olympia. Sports competitions such as running, wrestling, and javelin-throwing were held at Domitian’s stadium, events far less gruesome than the gladiator games held at the Colosseum.

 The Stadium of Domitian was completed in 86 AD, could hold 30,000 people, and is the only masonry stadium outside of Greece. You can visit the remains of the stadium under Piazza Navona with a self-guided audio tour.

You will find the entrance to the stadium at Via di Tor Sanguigna 3; allow about an hour to do the audio-guided tour of the Stadium on either side of your visit to Piazza Navona.

Quartiere Coppede & Fountain of the Frogs

A 15-minute walk from the Borghese Gallery is a whimsical neighborhood that escapes many visitors to Rome, the Coppede District.

Quartiere Coppedè, located within the Trieste neighborhood, is an enchanting little escape into a fairytale-like atmosphere. You’ll find architectural surprises nestled within a few blocks around the Fountain of the Frogs, a fusion of Art Nouveau, Baroque, and Medieval architecture with Renaissance influences. It’s a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle of the city center.

Just 15 minutes away is Pro Loco Pinciano, a great pizza place, and then a 7-minute walk further to Gelateria I Caruso (Via Collina, 15), one of my favorites in Rome. If you forego dessert at Pro Loco Pinciano (or decide you deserve double dessert, which you do!).

Pyramid of Cestius

Rome was going through a bit of an obsession with Egypt after conquering it in 30 B.C. You will likely notice the obelisks around Rome as well. The pyramid was built around 18-12 B.C. to serve as the tomb of Cestius, a Roman magistrate. It’s located near Porta San Paolo and Piramide metro.

The pyramid was integrated into the Aurelian Walls in the 270s A.D., which contributed to the preservation of the structure. Tours of the interior are conducted in Italian on designated Saturdays. I have not tried, but this is the official contact information I have found.

Once you are at the pyramid, you’re in one of the best neighborhoods to eat in Rome, Testaccio. Take a short walk to the Testaccio Market and make a meal out of samples from the various stalls selling local dishes. Or head to my favorite spot in Rome, Piatto Romano.

Consider sprinkling in some lesser-known sites in Rome during your visit and let me know which ones you enjoy.

Where to Eat Near the Vatican

For two weeks this past fall, I stayed in Prati, the neighborhood just north of the Vatican and ate very well. I imagine that you could easily eat disappointing meals if you are lured into a restaurant with picture menus and giant portions on display.

First of all, Mercato Trionfale is a gem! There are over 200 vendors, so your options are nearly limitless if you are looking for fresh produce, meat, seafood, or pasta to prepare yourself or want something already cooked. You can even pick up souvenirs like dried porcini mushrooms, olive or truffle oil, and vacuum-sealed cheese.

If you are planning to eat out, here are my favorite places in Prati. I visited most of them several times, so I can vouch for consistency.

1. Artigiano del Caffe

This adorable micro-roasting cafe in Prati is a must-stop in the morning. I hope I don’t get banned from Italy for admitting this, but I attempted to order a decaf cappuccino (my go-to). I know, I know . . . you’ll be comforted by the fact that these artisans were having none of that. So, I ordered a regular cappuccino and an incredibly flaky, buttery cornetto.

Artigiano del Caffe is beautifully decorated and cozy, the perfect ambiance for relaxing and enjoying your little indulgence.

2. Vero Food Prati

This is a fantastic stop for breakfast or lunch. The pastries at Vero Food were lovely. My friend and I had the soup-of-the-day and a sandwich (panino) for lunch after an afternoon of shopping at Coin Excelsior.

3. Guttilla

I am usually convinced that the universe is on my side, but I have evidence to the contrary. I spent two weeks, two whole weeks, in an apartment a 10-minute walk from the creamiest, dreamiest gelato and didn’t know about it until my LAST DAY IN ROME. Whyyyy?? Whyyyy? Obviously, it was a tease so that I would have no choice but to return to Rome. Okay, universe, I see you.

I opted for Torta della Nonna and Modica chocolate. It doesn’t matter what flavor you get…that texture!

4. Hosteria Pizzeria Giacomelli

What a gem of a place! Hosteria Pizzeria Giacomelli was a recommendation from an Airbnb host. Crispy, Roman-style pizza. Seafood. Pasta. The fritto misto at the neighboring table was enviable. The pizza toppings were generous. The zucchini appetizer was *chef’s kiss*. I tried to order more food, but the waiter wouldn’t let me. He grabbed the menu out of my hand and even switched to English to admonish me, “No, that’s enough.”

He was absolutely right. There was no need for more!

5. Iamotti Gelato

This is another great gelato shop in Prati. They also serve cakes, pastries, macarons, canoli, and other sweets.

6. Habibi Tunisian

Habibi Tunisian is an exquisite departure from Italian fare if you’re in the mood to mix it up. The setting is bright and intimate, and the staff is friendly. The salad mezze plate was divine.

7. BaoBao

I ate at BaoBao three times in two weeks. This is a bustling place in Prati where dumplings are handmade following traditional recipes from southern and northern China. You can even watch the chefs preparing dumplings at the counter near the entrance.

Just go here. Order one of everything. You will keep going back. I promise.

8. Antico Falcone

In full disclosure, I did not eat here on my trip, but Antico Falcone was recommended to me by two locals and gets solid reviews. The trattoria serves traditional Roman fare and has sidewalk and indoor seating.

3 Tips for Visiting Food Markets in Italy

There is no better way to get a taste of an Italian town, literally and metaphorically, than visiting the local market. Most major cities like Milan, Turin, Florence, Rome, and Naples, have large markets where you can buy produce, meat, fish, and prepared food daily. Smaller towns often have a market once or twice a week. Visiting the market is incredible for people-watching, getting a sense of what locals cook at home, and sampling seasonal, local produce.

You can check the town’s tourism or visitors’ site for the details of the weekly market or inquire with your hotel or apartment host.

⁠Here are a few tips for navigating food markets in Italy.

1. Bring cash.

In larger cities, many vendors may accept credit cards, but cash is still king in Italy! Be prepared by getting cash at an ATM before heading to the market. My favorite place to get cash is the Poste Italiane (post office), which usually has an ATM inside or outside, and they don’t charge foreign transaction fees, even if your card does. Otherwise, use a bank ATM (avoid EuroNet ATMs since they have incredibly high fees).

⁠2. Practice your Italian.

This is a great way to engage with vendors using some basic Italian vocabulary: numbers, pleasantries, and names of food items. You will get out of the experience what you put into it. The locals are proud of their offerings and are happy that you're interested in trying them, so have fun and let yourself try different things.

⁠3. Make a meal out of it.⁠

In some towns, you may find an organized tour of the market that includes tastings, which will take care of lunch, like my favorite one to date in Turin. Even without a tour, sample your way through the market. Buy small quantities and eat as you go, or gather a few items for a picnic and find a scenic spot afterward, which is not hard to do in this beautiful country.

⁠

3 Places for Al Fresco Wining & Dining in Tuscany

There is no shortage of incredible food and wine experiences in Tuscany. Here you can find my favorite places for wine tasting in the historic center of Montepulciano. If you have a car, here are my three recommendations within a 30-minute drive of Montepulciano for eating and drinking under the Tuscan sun.

Azienda Agricola CasaGori Pienza

1. Caseficio Cugusi

Solo travelers, romance yourself with a picnic. Walk into the shop at Cugusi and start filling up your basket with their cheese--fresh ricotta, spicy pecorino, truffle pecorino, drunk pecorino. You can get a small amount of each and then choose some local cured meats, honey, preserves, beer, wine, whatever your heart desires. The lovely staff will fill up your basket and include bread, napkins, a cutting board, and cutlery, then send you on your way for your picnic.

Even on a cloudy day, a Cugusi picnic is dreamy!

Take your goodies, and go bask in the glory of the Tuscan countryside. These are tables set up around the property with a view of the valley and the Temple of San Biagio.

Note that, as of May 2024, the picnic hours are 10 AM to 6 PM from late March until early November. You can make a reservation by emailing info@caseificiocugusi.it, but when I went mid-afternoon in May, it wasn’t necessary. The location is about a 10-minute drive from the center of Montepulciano.

Cugusi has been producing cheese in the area since 1962. If you can’t get to Cugusi’s property outside of town, they have a shop in Montepulciano’s center, so you can taste their products there.

2. Azienda Agricola CasaGori

As part of a biking tour, I had lunch with a wine and beer tasting at this biodynamic farm in Pienza, outside of the center. I had to pinch myself because it was authentic in every way—a true family feel with no pretenses and a breathtaking panoramic view over the Val d’Orcia.

The zucchini salad, prosciutto, bread, and CasaGori’s olive oil were heavenly, served alongside two beers and two wines. Sergio the dog was a constant companion during our lunch (he likes prosciutto, for the record. I can’t be trusted around your dog if they are going to look at me like this while I eat), and the goats came to pay a visit toward the end.

You can contact them via the form on their website to book a tasting or lunch.

3. Poggio Sorbello

About a 20-minute drive from Montepulciano, in Centoia near Cortona, is Poggio Sorbello, a family-run winery where you can tour the beautiful vineyards and taste their wines. It was all hands on deck the day I visited since they were bottling the wine. Despite all the activity, the other visitors and I were led through the vineyards, and then invited to relax under the shaded dining area surrounded by rose bushes and fruit trees for our wine tasting.

I am fond of their Syrah, and if you go for a tasting, I’d love to know which one was your favorite.

Poggio Sorbello also produces extra virgin olive oil, flours and seeds, and even saffron and elephant garlic.

Email the team at info@poggiosorbello.it to book your tour and tasting.

Wine Tasting in Montepulciano’s Historic Center

Montepulciano is a stunning hillside town in Southern Tuscany, not far from Siena and easy to reach by car when traveling between Florence and Rome.

The town has Etruscan origins, and the medieval center boasts beautifully preserved Renaissance palaces, ancient churches, wine cellars, quiet side streets, and unmatched panoramic viewpoints over the nearby valleys. Montepulciano offers easy access to the towns in its own Val di Chiana, such as Siena, Cortona, and Chianciano Terme and in the nearby Val d’Orcia—Pienza, Bagno Vignone, Montalcino, and Radicofani.

I recommend that you have a car if you’re visiting Montepulciano. The historic center is a 20-minute bus ride from the Montepulciano train station and with all of the towns to explore in Southern Tuscany, a car will make that more possible. I rented one at the Florence airport and drove to Montepulciano, but you could also rent one from Rome. According to my research, there are no car rental agencies in town or near the train station. You can find my tips for renting a car in Italy here.

Perhaps the biggest draw to Montepulciano is its wine--Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. To be labeled as such, the wine must be produced in the defined geographical area surrounding Montepulciano and must be at least 70% Sangiovese.

One of the things I love about Montepulciano is the tasting opportunities within the historic center. Especially if you are traveling solo and want to make a day out of tastings, to do so with a car may not allow you to drive back safely or you would need to arrange transportation or a group experience ahead of time. Those are good options, but if you want to be a bit more spontaneous, you can leave your car parked and “walk and taste” instead.

These are my recommendations for wine tasting in Montepulciano’s historic center.

1. Cantina De’Ricci

Palazzo Ricci is an impressive Renaissance building in historic Montepulciano and serves as the entrance to Cantina De’Ricci, which is owned by the Trabalzini family.

I joined a group tour that ended with a tasting of either three or six wines (go for six if you've come all this way!) after visiting and learning the history of one of the most impressive cellars I've seen. With the long aisles and arches, it's as though you're walking through an underground cathedral. The photos will not do it justice. This is a place you have to see in person to fully appreciate.⁠

To schedule a tour and tasting, contact De'Ricci via their website.

The tour + tasting lasted about 1.5 hours, and the entrance is in the historic center on Via Ricci (Via di Ricci, 11, Montepulciano).

2. Cantina Chiacchiera

You can visit the vineyards and cellars of this family winery in Cervognano, southeast of Montepulciano, where Emanuela Mancianti, the winery’s founder, is heavily involved in all aspects of the business. Or, enjoy a wine tasting and food at the family’s wine stop in the historic center, as I did for aperitivo.

The staff was cheerful and helpful. I did not order food since I was on my way to dinner, but the shop receives great reviews for their offerings.

“Chiacchiera” means “chatterbox” in Italian, and is the nickname for Emanuela’s father Mario.

You can find the wine shop at: Via di Voltaia Nel Corso, 50, Montepulciano

The winery is located at: Via di Poggio Golo, 12, 53045, Cervognano

You can find more contact info on their website here.

3. Talosa

The Jacorossi family has run Talosa since the 1970s. Their vineyards are located in the hills surrounding Montepulciano, but their main cellar is in the historic center, located under Piazza Grande.

The “basement” of two of the town’s oldest buildings, Palazzo Tarugi and Palazzo Sinatti, serve as Talosa’s cellar. You can walk through the cellar on your own, without a reservation, by visiting the wine shop in Via Talosa, 8, or you can arrange a guided tour of the cellar and a wine tasting at the end.

You can find more details on their website.

4. E Lucevan Le Stelle

The name of the charming wine bar in Piazza di San Francesco translates to “And the Stars Were Shining.” How romantic! Like the ambiance inside. The back walls are lined with bottles of wine, mostly local. Soft light filters in through the large windows. The welcoming patio was not open on the chilly, rainy evenings when I was there, but it would be the perfect aperitivo spot overlooking Piazza di San Francesco and its unmatched view of the sunset over the valley.

The bistro has a feature I hardly encounter in Italy—bar seating. Perfect for solo travelers!

Aside from the impressive wine list and welcoming vibe, E Lucevan Le Stelle offers a small menu of local dishes. I opted for pici (think: fat spaghetti), one of the local pasta types, with a beautiful ragu bianco (a white meat sauce). ⁠From my cozy table in the back, I watched locals linger over dinner and bottles of local wine, and I popped outside every few minutes to watch the sunset from Piazza di San Francesco.

If you have favorite spots for wine tasting in Montepulciano, please share them!

8 Tips for Renting a Car in Italy

I have now rented a car several times in Italy. Despite booking the smallest automatic car available, I end up with SUVs. So, I feel very American driving around these quaint hilltop towns and get completely overwhelmed about finding parking. But even in the most stressful situations—like going the wrong way in Volterra and having to back down a narrow one-way street with no backup camera—I remind myself, “You’ve got full insurance!” (See tip #4). 

On a couple of trips, I’ve been fortunate to have friends with me to help me navigate, but the other times I’ve been alone. You can do it! 

Here are my tips for navigating the car rental process in Italy.

1. Get an international driving permit.

To rent a car in Italy, you need an international driving permit. If you’re from the U.S., you obtain one of these through AAA. You will need to get passport photos taken, complete the application, pay $20, and voila! You have an international driving permit. It will be valid for one year after it’s issued (the issue date will be the travel date you enter as your first date abroad).

2. Do NOT forget your regular license.

After a two-hour wait just to pick up my prepaid rental car at the Florence airport, I finally arrived at the desk. There was still another 10 to 15 minutes of paperwork ahead of me, and I couldn’t help but eavesdrop and watch other customers as they approached the desk. Learn from their mistakes, please. 

A young woman was traveling with her parents, and the rental agent asked for her license. She gave him the international permit, and he said, “I need your regular license.” The blood drained from her face. “I don’t have it,” she said.

“I need your regular license, or I can’t rent you the car,” he said.

“We did not need it at the last place we rented from, she countered.

“It’s required,” he said, matter-of-factly. 

“That’s not what our travel agent told us,” she replied, on the verge of tears.

“I can’t rent you a car without your license, madam,” the agent said.

This woman had been in tears earlier in the afternoon upon the realization that we were all looking at a two- to three-hour wait to pick up our cars. She was having a terrible day, and this was the straw that was going to break the camel’s back. Fifteen minutes later, as I made my way to my car, she was on the phone with the agent in tears, trying to find a solution. 

I have always been asked to show both my U.S. license and international permit, so be prepared!

Sometimes you just need to take a road trip!

3. Rent directly from the rental car company.

Okay, on this “terrible, horrible, no good, very bad (car rental) day,” I learned another lesson by watching fellow customers have a miserable experience. Again, after waiting over two hours to pick up the car they already paid for, two early-twenty-something women, maybe sisters or friends, arrived at the desk with their printed confirmation. The agent looked at it. 

“Your reservation was for 11,” he said. It was almost 3:00 in the afternoon.

“Yes, but we’ve been waiting.”

“How long have you been waiting?”

“Two, two-and-a-half hours,” they said.

“So, you arrived at 12:30 or 1,” he said,

“Yes.”

“We can’t hold a reservation if you arrive after your pickup time,” he said. “You should have called to let us know you are late. We can’t hold a car for you.”

My heart dropped for them. 

There was more back-and-forth and he said, “There’s nothing I can do. It’s not our reservation. You rented from this other company,” and pointed at the paper. “You need to call them.”

Again, I left as one of the young women dialed customer service from the third-party rental. I have no idea how that turned out.

I know you will likely find better deals on third-party sites, and I can’t speak to the experience of using one when traveling in Italy, but I don’t recommend it. I have rented directly from the companies each time, and after witnessing what others have gone through with third-party rentals, I can’t recommend it. 

4. Get the (full) insurance policy directly from the rental company.

I thought my CapitalOne Venture Card would serve as the insurer on my car rental, but upon calling the customer service number and reading the fine print, Italy is excluded from the list of countries that the card covers. It’s my understanding that to use your credit card as insurance, you decline all other insurance offered by the rental company (which I normally do in the U.S.). But, in Italy, rental car daily rates include some insurance, so you can’t technically waive the insurance, which then negates the credit card benefit. 

I called CapitalOne twice to ask about this, and the first time, the agent told me to decline coverage and use my card, but upon a call to the concierge services number, the automated message about car insurance stated that Italy and one other country (that now escapes my memory) was excluded from this benefit. I encourage you to read your card’s terms and conditions as well to understand if there are limits or restrictions to this benefit.

Please note that the daily rate for insurance can be just as much per day if not more than the actual cost of the rental car. I opt for the full-coverage option that covers damage to the tires and windshield as well. I need to know that I can run into a medieval wall, back into a lamppost, or get scratches from another car that I’ve parked too close to and not have to worry about a thing on the back end. For me, peace of mind outweighs five or ten euros a day. Now, keep in mind that even with full coverage, if you cause damage to someone or something else while driving, that’s on you.

And sometimes you get a parking lot with all kinds of space for the SUV you didn’t want…thank you, parking gods!

5. Download your maps before hitting the road.

I’m going to admit. I don’t always do this, but I want to kick myself whenever I don’t because I will find myself in a dead zone at some point. I’m renting a car to go a bit off the beaten trail, so why would I not download the maps to use offline? Google Maps allows you to do this, and I find this tutorial helpful.

You may not get the alternate routes or other options when you’re using your maps offline, but they will still get you from point A to B.

6. Beware of sticker shock!

The days of cheap rental cars are over, I think. Yes, the day rate on the rental cars may not be significant, but with the cost of insurance, an automatic car rental cost has been close to $100 per day (half of which is the cost of full-coverage insurance).

I only rent a car in Italy as a treat. There are some places I’ve wanted to visit where taking public transportation didn't make sense given my itinerary and timeframe, like visiting parts of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna, and Piedmont.

It’s expensive. But it’s been worth it to me for the convenience. I also try to rent from reputable companies. I’ve rented from Noleggiare twice (one great experience in Bologna, one not-great experience in Florence) and from Sixt (great experiences in both Florence and Torino). Sixt was slightly more expensive per day, but the customer service and breeze of a pick-up process have been unmatched. No, I am not getting paid (or getting discounted/free rentals) to tell you this. 

The price of fuel in Italy compared to the U.S. is higher as well. So, factor that in when considering your budget for your trip and your rental car.

And be sure to read the fine print on cancellation policies. I like to spend a few euros more per day to keep the cancellation flexible.

7. Don’t expect things to happen quickly.

You read my comments earlier about waiting over two hours to pick up my pre-paid rental car, right? From my understanding, that is not an outlier event for some companies, especially during busy seasons. Just a few days ago, a friend messaged me that it took two hours to pick up her car at the Frankfurt airport before heading to the Christmas markets (you know, in one of the countries known for its efficiency). So, be prepared to wait.

I like to think of travel days as ones when you don’t have a hard timeline. Don’t plan anything based on the assumption that you will pick up your rental car quickly or that you will get to your destination without interruptions. Expect delays at every turn (and then you leave yourself open to being pleasantly surprised!).

8. Be friendly. (Bonus: Speak a bit of Italian.)

Back to the day when I stood in line with my fellow travelers for over two hours at the Florence airport (outside) to pick up our cars . . . here’s my third anecdote from situations I observed while waiting in line. Call me observant. Call me nosey. Either way, we all win from my not minding my own business.

I had watched a few people at the desk before it was my turn. They were cranky, complaining about the wait, and ready for a fight. Understandably so. It was a frustrating experience. However, the agents are just doing their jobs. The system failure is not their fault. Even though I was tired and frustrated, I decided to take a different approach. 

I know a bit of Italian, so I greeted the agent by name (since I read his name tag) in Italian and asked him how he was doing. He apologized for the wait and asked when I arrived. I asked if they still had automatic cars, and he said yes. “But, it will be an SUV,” he said. This was my first car rental experience in Italy, and I was not thrilled at the idea of an SUV. “Is it big?” I asked. “No, no, it’s not big. It’s comfortable,” he said. Y’all, this would have been comfortable for a family of four. Side note: I have always requested small cars and always received SUVs, so I think most of the automatic car inventory is SUVs.

Anyway, he was going back and forth between helping me and helping two Italian guys behind me who were very antsy because they needed a car to drive to Rome for an important sporting event, and they were cutting it close. The agent was highly invested in helping them. They had a printout of their reservation. The agent pointed to the paper. “This is for tomorrow,” he said in Italian. “25 May. Today is 24 May.”

Some fast-talking went on among the two friends and the agent. “Don’t worry. It’s okay,” he said. Within five minutes, those guys had their car. This is while I’m watching the friends who were “too late” and the renters without the original driver’s license jump through hoops. 

I’m not saying there’s a right or wrong here, in my experience, connection trumps efficiency, so play your cards right. I was friendly, did my best to speak in Italian, and had my documentation. I think the first two went a long way in getting me into my car and on my way to the Val d’Orcia with very little fuss. 

Montepulciano, you gorgeous reward at the end of a brutal travel day

Remember, you’re in Italy. Businesses don’t operate like they do in the U.S. so “when in Rome” or wherever you find yourself, show some kindness and patience, even if it’s been a long, frustrating day.

If you’ve rented a car in Italy, I’d love to hear about your experience and any dos or don’ts you’ve learned along the way!

My 3 Favorite Venetian Eateries

I can’t give you a ton of restaurant recommendations for Venice because I haven’t had many sit-down meals. I like to nibble and sip my way through the city. I think of my friend Kathleen’s advice, “The trick to drinking throughout the day is you have to keep moving. Metabolize your alcohol.” That’s not hard to do in Venice. And with all the walking, I get hungry often, so I love the cicchetti culture.

Cicchetti (chi-KET-ee) are slices of toast topped with all sorts of goodness like seafood (including the famous baccala), marinated vegetables, and cured meats and cheeses. There are cicchetti bars all over the city, and I have two favorites that I will share with you here.

Cicchetti at All’Arco

All’Arco

I have been known to visit All’Arco twice in a day. For their cicchetti, I break my rule of avoiding restaurants within a 5-minute walk of the major tourist destinations. All’Arco is oh-so-close to the Rialto Bridge. Established in 1996, All’Arco is a favorite among locals and visitors. There will be a line, but it moves quickly. Being featured in Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy brought even more attention to this gem tucked in an alleyway. God bless you and your fabulous taste, Stanley Tucci (and speaking of delicious…)! 

Back to All’Arco. All three times I’ve been, I’ve seen familiar faces behind the bar, including a tall man with salt-and-pepper hair and a warm smile who always recommends the best wine to go along with my plate of cicchetti. Service has always been efficient and friendly. I usually spy a couple of cicchetti behind the glass that call my name and then ask them to recommend a couple of others. I always think four cicchetti will be plenty, but who are we kidding? I could easily eat eight. 

All’Arco cicchetti Venice

The tricky part is what to do once you’re double-fisting snacks and wine. Outdoor seating is limited, and I have only gotten a chair once after nearly burning a hole into the side of a fellow American’s* face with my gaze as I watched him and his friends lingering at a table just chit-chatting, glasses empty and only crumbs on their plates. I feel like there is a mutual understanding among tourists in these situations. “Would you like to sit?” he offered halfway through my lunch as I stood next to the neighboring building, balancing my wine glass on a windowsill and shoo-ing the pigeons away from my plate. “Why, yes, I would thank you!” And here I was thinking chivalry was dead. 

Sigh . . . even if you must prop yourself against a building, sit on the ground, or stare down your fellow tourists until they succumb to passive aggressive peer pressure and give up their seats, All’Arco is worth it.

Vino Vero

DO NOT ASK FOR A SPRITZ! I know spritzes are all the rage, but Vino Vero makes it very clear. They are a wine bar. No spritzes here! 

I had myself a tipsy little time here on my last trip to Venice. I arrived around 5 PM, and the handful of outdoor tables were all spoken for. I carved out a spot at the corner of the bar inside, where I stood for an hour and enjoyed a bit of a show with my snacks and bubbles, while guests trickled in and out and the servers seemed to do a choreographed dance behind the counter, warming and plating cicchetti and pouring wine.

I couldn’t decide on a glass of sparking wine, so the server let me taste a few options. Let me tell y’all, after a whole afternoon of walking around and the lunchtime cicchetti from All’Arco nothing but a delicious memory, those bubbles went straight to my head. I happily ordered whatever the server recommended, and I was in heaven. Seriously, do we get to choose our heaven? Because I can’t imagine getting tired of eating cicchetti and sipping sparkling wine on a sunny spring day in Venice.

There was a memorable pistachio and mortadella cicchetti and one with sardines (maybe?) and salsa verde. And pear and manchego with something…as you can tell, documenting the details was not a priority that day, but every bite was pure bliss!

What’s lovely about visiting Vino Vero for aperitivo is that it puts you in the Cannaregio neighborhood where you can stroll through the charming streets as the sun starts to cast a magical glow over the canals and houses. And you’re right next to Bacaro del Gelato (heavenly!) and only a five-minute stroll from my favorite art shop Plum Plum, where you can stock up on beautiful etchings, linocuts, and watercolors by Arianna that make for easy-to-transport gifts for your loved ones (or yourself!).

The talented Arianna in her shop

Salvmeria

Sometimes snacking just won’t do. Thanks to Corinna B (I’ll say it again…order her book. She made me fall in love with Venice!), I had Salvmeria on my radar. It was a five-minute walk from where I stayed in the Castello district and is a charming, cozy osteria with an open kitchen that pays homage to traditional Venetian cuisine with a Sicilian twist. I arrived one evening without a reservation, and the host was friendly and made a spot for me in the outdoor dining area. The menu was limited (almost always a good sign!).

The sign for Salvmeria, with a “V” in place of a “U,” has been there since the 1920s when once upon a time the space served as a deli serving working-class Venetians. After being abandoned for 30 years, the current owners brought the space back to life as a cozy, refined bàcaro, a small tavern serving wine and cicchetti and small plates. I opted for the heavenly baccalà mantecato (whipped salted cod) served with polenta and a glass of white wine. 

Even though Salvmeria is only a 10- to 15-minute walk from St. Mark’s square on well-trafficked Via Garibaldi, I felt like I was much further away from the hustle-and-bustle of Venice.

7 Ways to Miss the Magic of Venice

“The day you go to Venice – if ever you do go – will be one day quite by itself in your life. You will be alive that day.”

from The City of Beautiful Nonsense by E. Temple Thurston, British poet, playwright, and author

It was a day quite by itself, I can attest to that. I cried in awe on the Ponte dell’Accademia watching the sunset cast a pink and golden glow over the Floating City. There are some places that photos cannot do justice, and for me, Venice is one of them.

Corinna Cooke made me fall in love with the idea of going to Venice. When planning out my trip, I wasn’t sure about it. It just seemed like a box that needed to be checked, and I wasn’t sure if I wanted to. Until I read Corinna’s Glam Italia! 101 Fabulous Things to Do in Venice. The way she describes the sunsets, the historic cafés, the neighborhoods where you will encounter more Venetians than fellow tourists—Venice was luring me like a friendly siren.

My plan to spend four nights in Venice was cut short by Covid, and I instead spent my time holed up in a Bologna hotel. When I was in the clear, I took the first train I could to the City of Water for a three-day weekend. As I exited Venice’s Santa Lucia station in search of the correct vaporetto stand, I had to catch my breath. The heat, noise, and crowds disappeared, and I felt like I had stepped into a movie as I faced San Simeone Piccolo, the iconic church on the Grand Canal.

Even standing packed into a stuffy vaporetto (the public water “bus”) headed to the Giardini stop couldn’t keep me from buzzing with excitement to explore. I walked to my room near the public gardens and the Biennale exhibition grounds (I was fortunate to be visiting during the Biennale, so that was my first stop after getting settled). About a 25-minute walk (at a type-A American’s pace) from St. Mark’s Square, the Castello neighborhood was the perfect place to base myself for a couple of nights. Wandering through the alleyways as sunset approached, there wasn’t much activity and few fellow tourists in sight.

Following orders from Corinna (“I suggest getting yourself to a bar or a bridge with a view along the Grand Canal toward the Salute.”), I walked to the Ponte dell’Accademia for sunset and iconic views of the Basilica Santa Maria della Salute and stood there for an hour as the golden hour gave way to the blue light. “[T]his is the time of day when you catch the city at its most magical,” Corinna writes. She wasn’t wrong.

I have now been to Venice twice, and I find the city to be pure magic any time of day especially in the evening. There are going to be people who visit Venice, though, and never experience its splendor. I don’t want you to be one of them, so here are seven general tips on how to not miss the magic of Venice. I urge you to get Corinna’s book for detailed advice.

7 Ways You’ll Miss the Magic of Venice

1. You don’t stay the night.

It would be a shame to travel to Venice and miss the golden hour, the blue light, and the life that the city takes on at night. Please resist the urge to take a day trip. You really should stay in Venice for at least a couple of nights, especially if this is a one-in-a-lifetime trip. Not only will you get to experience another side of the city, but also it’s the right thing to do.

As Responsible Travel points out, “Many [visitors] poured off a cruise ship – on some days as many as 44,000 cruise passengers come to the city – or are on a whirlwind tour of Italy. Some stay for just a few hours, see little, buy a few trinkets, and leave. They bring no economic benefit to the city in this way.” “Your morning coffee, evening aperitivo, and every random little expense you don’t even think about, all . . . impact the economy and the livelihood of local Venetians,” Corinna reminds us.

Venice suffers from population decline. Since the 1950s, over 120,000 locals have left the main island, in large part due to the impact of mass tourism, and that number continues to climb. I think it’s our responsibility as visitors to Venice to pour into the local economy and do our best to support Italian-owned shops, restaurants, and accommodations.   

Even if you don’t stay overnight (or multiple nights) for this reason, also consider that Venice is just pure magic after sunset. There will be moments when you feel like you have St. Mark’s Square mostly to yourself, save for those having a nightcap or coffee at one of the historic cafes, while small bands provide entertainment.

St. Mark’s Square PIazza San Marco Venice Italy

You will walk through the alleyways and over the small bridges and hear nothing put the clinking of dishes and the sound of boats gliding along the canals. To me, Venice after dark is otherworldly.

2. You get off at the wrong Venice train stop.

There are two train stops for Venice. The one on the island, along the Grand Canal, and likely the one you want: Venice Santa Lucia.

Venice Mestre is the other. A borough of Venice, Mestre is on the mainland, and some visitors opt to stay there and take the short train ride across the lagoon to the island. So, if you do end up at Mestre, it won’t be problematic to get back on track. But, I would hate for you to cut yourself short by even 20 minutes in Venice!

3. You bring too much stuff.

Steph, what is your hang-up about packing? You won’t shut up about it. Seriously, though, the smartest thing I did was leave my larger piece of luggage in storage in Bologna (since I was headed back there after my time in Venice). I only brought a shoulder bag to Venice for the three days I would be there. With the crowded vaporetto, the stone streets, and the oh-so-many narrow stairs at the hotel, I could not have been more thrilled with my decision.

If you are traveling to Venice and plan to walk and take public transportation (vaporettos) to get around, consider storing your larger luggage at the Santa Lucia station or somewhere else nearby. I use RadicalStorage. Their app shows you the options for luggage drop-off facilities in the area, and you can book your bag through the app. Make sure you drop your bag at a location that is open during the timeframe you will need to get it back on your way out of Venice.

4. You don’t walk more than 10 minutes from St. Mark’s Square & the Rialto Bridge.

You must see St. Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge, of course. My advice is to see them in the early morning or late evening when all the day trippers have left. But, to really get a feel for Venice and how slow the pace of life is and to really feel like you’ve stepped back in time and appreciate how quiet the city is (there are no cars, for goodness sake!), you need to get away from these places. That’s where the crowd are.

The Venice that you dream of can be found in Cannaregio, Castello, and Dorsodouro, along with the less-crowded areas of Santa Croce, San Paolo, and San Marco. Venice is walkable! On my second trip to Venice, I never took a vaporetto. I walked across most of the island. Wear good shoes and go! There are plenty of gelaterias, pasticcerias, and cicchetti bars for when you need a break.  

5. You take a popular gondola route.

I wish I had videos of the sad gondola experiences I’ve witnessed. Those poor souls, trapped in a beautiful boat right behind and beside more beautiful boats, stuck in perpetual rush hour on the crowded canals as the sun beats down on them. And they paid good money for this lackluster experience.

A gondola ride in Venice costs 80 euros for 30 minutes during the day and 120 euros in the evening (including sunset rides). I have yet to do one, but it’s on my checklist for my third visit after witnessing gondola-rides-gone-right. Wander to the less-crowded areas of the island and hire a gondolier from one of the stands where there is no line. I promise you will find them, and the experience will be every bit as romantic as you hoped.

6. You eat at the wrong restaurants.

Yes, there are wrong restaurants. And they have waiters outside trying to wave you in the door as you stroll by. They have large menus, printed in multiple languages, with enlarged images of food. Few things upset me more than a mediocre meal. And you can have a lot of those in Venice. When you see those picture menus or encounter the over-the-top host, keep walking! I don’t care if the sign says “authentic” or “from scratch” or “local cuisine.”

Bar All’Arco for cicchetti every time!

This goes against my “walk more than 10 minutes from the Rialto Bridge to get a good meal rule.” All’Arco is only a one-minute walk from the bridge and was featured on Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy. And it deserves all the praise it gets!

You will find cicchetti (pronounced chi-KET-tee) bars across Venice. Think finger foods. Snacks. You can make a meal out of them or nibble to keep the hangry-ness at bay.

You will know a local establishment when you see it. The host will not be outside trying to convince you to sit down. In fact, I recommend that you do your research ahead of time and make reservations. I always regret not having a dinner reservation, and it will not end well to make a restaurant decision when hangry.

7. You try to do too much.

You can find more of my thoughts on this in my blog post with general travel tips for Italy. My recommendation is to plan one, maybe two, activities for the day. I like to have a plan for the morning and a plan for the afternoon or sometimes leave one half of the day completely free for walking around. In Venice, you HAVE TO build in time to walk around. That’s the key to soaking it in.

Just assume that everything will take longer than you think—transportation, walking, meals. Don’t overbook yourself! You have to slow down in la dolce vita.

Experience Frascati with Locals

I knew I would fall in love with Italy when I stayed in Frascati upon arriving on my first trip. You can read about my time in Frascati here. While Frascati makes an easy day trip from Rome with just a 30-minute train ride, I recommend that you stay there for at least one night. The town really comes alive after dark, and the sunset over the hills is spectacular.

Take a Cooking Class with Jo

This isn’t your “make bruschetta and homemade pasta with bolognese” class. I’m not knocking it, and if that’s what you want to learn to make, go for it! Those classes are plentiful in Rome and other popular tourist destinations. But, if you are a self-described foodie and want to experience true home cooking, you must do a cooking class with Jo. I get the sense that no two menus are ever the same. I don’t think her creativity would ever allow for that. Not to mention, Jo is the consummate host and an absolute blast!

Making seafood risotto under Jo’s tutelage

I ate so much food during our afternoon together that I was rendered useless. I’m not sure if the fried zucchini blossoms, meatballs, spaghetti with clams, or veal saltimbocca put me over the edge. Or maybe it was the poached peach with honey. You can read more about my time with Jo here. Trust me, though, reach out to her. Book a cooking experience (not class, experience!). Even if it’s just to escape Rome for the day, it will be time well spent.

Rent a Bike

The Castelli Romani region is gorgeous and can be explored by bike. I went to Ciclotech in Frascati on my second day in town to rent an e-bike. In my limited Italian and the manager’s limited English, we discussed my plan to go off-road. “It is not safe,” he warned. “You are alone. What if something bad happens to you?” The shop did not (and to my knowledge still does not) offer guided tours of the area. “I will call my friend. He can be your guide, and he speaks English.”

“Tell him it’s a pretty girl,” his coworker exclaimed in Italian as the manager waited for his friend to pick up on the other line.

Whether that was an incentive or not, I was lucky that Guilio was available! “One hour is okay?” the manager asked me. That worked! When I returned Guilio gave me a primer on the bike, checked my helmet, and we were on our way. We biked through the hills near Frascati on dirt trails and ancient Roman roads. We stopped to see the ruins of an ancient Roman bath and at the piazza in Monte Porzio Catone for the panoramic views before pedaling back to downtown Frascati.

Monte Porzio Catone

Even though I’m not sure if the shop officially offers tours at this time, I recommend reaching out to the team at Ciclotech for bike rentals, self-guided tours, or for a guide should Guilio or another team member be available.

BYO Eats to a Fraschetta

There are few places I won’t go for an authentic dining experience. Fraschette are wine cellars where, historically, visitors would bring their own food and imbibe local wine. Liz Boulter of The Guardian writes, “[F]rom at least medieval times winemakers would hang out a laurel branch (frasca) when their new wine was ready. Locals and passing farmers would flock to these cellars to carouse and quaff, taking their own snacks and nibbles to soak up the wine. And if those nibbles were salty and spicy – olives, salami and coppiette, the jerky-like strips of cured shin meat with lots of chili that we’ve brought – well, that just led to more jugs of wine, merry drinkers and happy owners.”

The evening after my bike ride, I was a merry drinker who met the happy owner of Cantina da Santino, aptly named Felice. His is a traditional fraschetta that does not serve food, so I brought porchetta from a local shop and enjoyed Felice’s generous pours of his family’s crisp white wine. Despite our language barrier, he was a gracious host who told me about his family’s vineyards in the area and that he is not sure if his sons will continue the tradition of running the fraschetta.

The proprietor of Cantina da Santino, Felice, which means “happy.” Don’t you believe that he lives up to his name?

I hope his worries are unfounded. He and his Cantina da Santino are a gem, and it would be a shame for Frascati to lose this piece of history. On that evening, I tried not to worry about how time could change things. I sipped his wine as the sun set, and, when I knew another glass would be a bad idea, I went for a passeggiata visiting my favorite little square in town and strolling along the promenade with the views of Rome in the distance.

Food and Friendship in Frascati

Frascati was my introduction to Italy if we don’t count Rome’s airport and train station. I wanted to ease into my six-week Italian adventure but also knew I didn’t want to travel very far on the day my flight arrived. From Rome’s Termini Station, Frascati is 30 minutes by train ride but seems like a world away.

Frascati sits in the Alban Hills south of Rome and is one of the towns in the area collectively known as Castelli Romani (Roman castles). The area is famous for its food and wine, outdoor recreation, and historical sites.

Jet-lagged, I arrived in Frascati on a sunny September afternoon. I checked into my Airbnb near the cathedral and promptly broke the cardinal rule of beating jet leg: don’t take a nap. After a three-hour snooze, I forced myself out of bed and into the hilly streets of Frascati to get my bearings during golden hour.

From the bustling piazze to sleepy side streets, I was enchanted. Teenagers gathered on the steps of St. Peter’s Cathedral. Old men sat silently side-by-side on the bench in Piazza Paolo III as children ran around the fountain and young professionals walked their dogs while smoking their cigarettes. I made my way to the promenade at Piazza Marconi to join the locals for a passegiatta. As I strolled along, the sun set over Rome in the distance. The golden light slowly gave way to bathing Frascati in blue. 

I glanced across Boulevard Vittorio Veneto at the Monument of the Fallen. Flanked by lampposts and palm trees, with Villa Aldobrandini on the hill behind, it was postcard-perfect. I took in the view to my left and right and breathed in the cool air, the locals’ chatter my soundtrack for the evening. Sono qui, I thought to myself. I am here. I am here. In Italy. Just me. I did it. And I knew I was going to love it.

Jo: Frascati’s Unofficial Ambassador

From the moment Jo responded to my email inquiring about her cooking class, I knew I would have a blast with her. We met at a bar in Piazza del Mercato. Within minutes it was clear that everyone knows and wants to talk to Jo. She is the self-described “ambassadress” to Frascati—her mother is from the town, and her father is British, so she grew up bilingual and has called Frascati home for most of her life. In the bakery and around town, Jo introduced me to her local and expat friends, sharing little tidbits about how they know each other. How lucky was I to be the only person signed up to cook with Jo that day!

After a cappuccino at the bar, we visited the nearby bakery and butcher. We returned to Jo’s apartment to leave the groceries before heading to the outdoor market in a neighboring town, where she bought eggplant, zucchini flowers, porcini mushrooms, and clams. Hers is still the best spaghetti con vongole I’ve eaten (“It’s because I use more clams than most people,” Jo revealed)!

Back at her apartment, Jo taught me how to make a simple chickpea soup, fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with anchovies and mozzarella, saltimbocca, clam spaghetti, and more! And of course, she served chilled Frascati wine. After the second glass, I stopped taking notes. Luckily Jo emailed me the recipe at the end of the day.

After a few hours on our feet, we took a rest in Jo’s living room. We discussed her business, astrology, family . . . there seemed to be no topic off-limit. I think we may have known each other in a previous life. Jo says that she loves having young people around because it keeps her feeling young, but every time I’m around her, I feel like I can hardly keep up with her.

Just when I thought we were winding down, she called her friend Michelle who runs the Easy Frascati blog. It was through Michelle’s website that I found Jo’s cooking class. “I want you to meet my new friend Stephanie,” Jo said over the phone as she invited Michelle for aperitivo at La Stanza del Duca, The Duke’s Room in English. You can read more about this darling tea room on Jo’s blog, but the short story is that it pays homage to Cardinal Henry Stuart, Duke of York, a bishop who lived in Frascati in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. I probably should have ordered tea given the setting, but I opted for a spritz instead.

As evening set in, Jo’s husband Pino met us to say “hello” and give Jo a ride to dinner at her mother’s place. Jo and I have seen each other twice since then, and I am grateful that she takes me under her wings every time I visit. A few weeks after this cooking class, on my last night in Rome, I had aperitivo with Jo, Pino, and their friend Giancarlo (who, though we had just met, gave me memorable advice, “You can’t process divorce from the mind. You have to do it from the heart.”). And a few months later, on my second visit to Frascati, I spent the evening with Jo at her home, catching up while sipping crisp white wine and making seafood risotto.

On that first night after our day together I walked through Piazza San Rocco and looked out to where the sun had just set over Rome. I went back to the promenade to admire the fountain. Sono qui. I am here. In Italy. And I’ve made a friend.

48 Hours in Lucca

Just like Turin, Lucca was not part of my original itinerary. When I planned my six-week trip, I left some days unplanned so I can spend a few days wherever I feel like going in the moment. Leaving Cinque Terre, on my way to Florence at the end of September, I decided to spend 48 hours in Lucca.

Lucca is famous for the well-preserved walls that encircle the old city. You can walk or bike the ramparts, taking in the city from above. It takes about half an hour to bike the tree-lined path on the walls, and there are several bike rental companies and guided tours to choose from. There seems to always be plenty going on in Lucca. On the weekend I was there, the Lucca Film Festival was in full swing, as was the Lucca Biennale Cartasia (LUBICA) to celebrate paper art.

I arrived around 11 AM, a few hours before I was allowed to check into my apartment. I used Radical Storage to find somewhere to drop off my luggage so that I could explore the town for a few hours. Just across the street from the train station was the tourist information office and bike rental shop that also offered luggage storage. I decided not to rent a bike, but this may be a good option for you if you find yourself in a similar position.

Walking the walls that surround Lucca

I like to spend the first couple of hours in a new place just walking with no agenda to get my bearings. It wasn’t long before I arrived at Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. It’s an elliptical-shaped plaza, due to its being built over the ruins of a second-century Roman amphitheater, surrounded by yellow-hued buildings with green shutters. Umbrella-shaded tables line the perimeter of the piazza. I opted for lunch al fresco at L’Angolo Tondo. The braised beef cheek special and glass of local red wine was the first of several delightful meals in Lucca.

Guinigi Tower

After settling in at the apartment, I went back to the old town to visit Guinigi Tower just before sunset. At one time, there were over 100 towers in Lucca, but Guinigi Tower is one of two that remain (the other is the Clock Tower, Torre delle Ore). The Guinigi Tower was commissioned in the 14th century by the Guinigi family as part of its residence and includes a hanging garden of holm oaks. The visit to the garden and the views are worth every one of the 230 steps you climb to reach the top.

I was shocked at how small the rooftop is. I was there with about 10 other visitors at the same time. If more of us had been there, it probably would have felt too crowded. I lingered for close to an hour, taking in the views of the city below with its churches, bell towers, and red roofs and, in the distance, the lush hills and mountains.

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

It was time for aperitivo, so I returned to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, which is particularly magical at sunset when the string lights come on and the piazza is bathed in golden light. Watch the video with the sound on and tell me you’re not tempted to book a plane ticket to Italy right now!

I sat in the garden at nearby Canuleia for dinner. I had the pumpkin and sausage risotto with taleggio and toasted hazelnuts, which continues to stand out as one of my most memorable meals in Italy to date. I had dinner on the early side and was able to get a table with no problem (this is before I learned my lesson about making reservations) since I wanted to be done by 9 PM to attend a concert.

Concert 

I think concerts make for a great solo activity, especially in more intimate venues like the one I found in Lucca. The Istituto Musicale Luigi Boccherini hosted a free concert at the Auditorium Del Suffragio featuring double bassists Andrés Martín and Gabriele Ragghianti with Arianna Tarantino on piano. After a long day on the go, it was lovely to unwind and be entertained without having to interact. It forces me into presence. There’s no talking, and it would be disruptive to the other guests if I were scrolling on my phone. In a way, these concerts in a historic venue almost feel like stepping back in time.

The next day began with a cappuccino and the best pastry I’ve ever had. I almost hesitate to say that because I’ve even so many pastries, could I really claim that this one is the best? I think so. I am a sucker for a cornetto with pistachio cream, but the chocolate cream cornetto at Pasticceria Dianda near Lucca’s Botanical Garden was out of this world. I have yet to have another that compares (but it’s been fun trying!).

Botanical Garden

It was a drizzly morning and walking through the arboretum of the Botanical Garden was quite romantic. Established in 1820, the impressive garden, which includes a pond and peat bog, native flora from the nearby mountains, and a collection of camellias and rhododendrons, is in the city center and borders the historic walls. The greenhouse provided shelter when the rain started to pour.

The gardens were not crowded, and it was not necessary to purchase a ticket in advance. There is a small entrance fee for non-residents.

Art

Leaving the Botanical Garden, I made my way to Centro Studi d’Arte Lorenzo Pacini, a non-profit organization with a mission to promote the arts in Lucca and beyond. A painting by Armenian-born Ani Asoyan caught my eye in the window the day before, and I returned to purchase it (along with another one of her pieces).

For lunch, it was back to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro for papparadelle con cinghiale (wild boar) at Pizzicheria La Grotta, which has been there since 1865. Take away some of the salumi, which is made in-house.

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Lucca Cathedral

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Entrust by Eu Taze

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Pasticceria Dianda

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Pretty doors

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Botanical Garden

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Simurgh by Papier Atelier

 Wander

Lucca is such a picturesque town. I can tell when a place has spoken to my heart based on how many photos I take of nothing in particular. I have hundreds of photos from my 48 hours in Lucca.

I would wander through the streets and then pop out into a piazza, several of which had incredible paper sculptures on display thanks to LUBICA, which I didn’t have on my radar while I was there but learned about after the fact. I’m sad that I didn’t realize there were more sculptures to enjoy or I would have sought them out, but I don’t think it’s any coincidence that I saw the ones that really spoke to me—messages about trust and stripping away the barriers to starting over as our truest selves.

In Lucca, I was falling in love with Italy and also with my new life, the one that I hadn’t planned or imagined but one that I was getting excited about.

My Favorite Things to Do in Turin

I almost hate to post about Turin (Torino, en italiano). I feel like it’s one of Italy’s best-kept secrets, and I kind of want to have it for myself. It wasn’t part of my original plan to visit Turin, but when a storm forced me to cancel my plan to visit the island of Elba at the last minute, I looked at the departures board at Roma Termini and saw that a train would be leaving for Turin in 15 minutes. One of my dearest friends worked for NBC during the 2006 Olympics in Turin, and I knew that the city was famous for chocolate, which was enough of a selling point for me to take the 4.5-hour fast train.

There’s more to know about Turin than the fact that you must absolutely indulge in chocolate in every form possible while you are there. Its history dates to the third century BCE when it was founded by Celtics who called in Taurasia. It was a major trading center for the Romans, was taken over by several rulers in the Middle Ages, and the House of Savory made Turin its capital in the 14th century.

 In 1861 Turin became the first capital of the newly united Italy, before the capital was moved to Florence in 1865 and Rome in 1870. Turin is a thriving industrial city—home to Fiat and Lavazza—and is renowned for its architecture, art, and food, as well as the famous Shroud of Turin, which is not usually visible.

I arrived in Turin on a sunny, cool early fall day, and it was love at first sight. From the taxi, I had a view of the Po River on my right and Piazza Vittorio Veneto on my left, and my jaw dropped. I was itching to drop my luggage off at the apartment and start walking. I have now visited Turin twice, and I just can’t get enough of it.

Here are my favorite things to incorporate into your time in Turin:

Take in the views.

Turin is a gorgeous city with a view of the Alps in the distance. Just a 10-minute walk from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, across the Po River, is the Monte dei Cappuccini, which provides one of the best viewpoints. I went at sunset on a clear day, and the mountains were visible. Wear comfortable shoes, as you will walk up a steep paved road to get to the outlook in front of the Chiesa di Santa Maria. You will be captivated by the views of Turin, but take a few minutes to go inside the church as well.

If you are planning to go in the evening, I recommend that you arrive early so that you have time to see the church and claim a spot along the wall to take in the view as the sun sets and the different shades of light give the city a different glow as time goes on.

From the Monte dei Cappuccini you have a view of Turin that includes the iconic Mole Antonelliana. The monument, completed in 1889, is easily Turin’s most recognizable building. You can buy tickets to go to the top of the monument for 360-degree views of the city. From there, you will see Monte dei Cappuccini and Chiesa di Santa Maria. Mole Antonelliana also houses the National Cinema Museum, which is worth a visit.

View of Turin from Monte dei Cappuccini

If you have time for only one viewpoint, though, I recommend going to the Monte dei Cappuccini so that your view of Turin includes the Mole Antonelliana.

Visit the Egyptian Museum.

Turin’s Egyptian Museum is home to the world’s largest collection of Egyptian artifacts, second only to the museum by the same name in Cairo. The Savoy dynasty is responsible for the strong link between Turin and Egypt, having acquired an impressive collection of artifacts and remaining committed to preserving and sharing the culture of ancient Egypt. From human and animal mummies to papyrus scrolls, jewelry, and everyday household items, the museum houses over 4,000 years’ worth of history.

I was particularly enthralled with the Papyrus of Iuefankh, which measures over 60 feet long!  The papyrus was found in the tomb of Iuefankh and is an example of the types of guides to the afterlife that were included in the tombs of the deceased and provided spells, prayers, and formulas to help them navigate the afterlife.

 Allow at least two hours for your visit. This website has helpful tips on visiting the museum.

Indulge in a bicerin.

I don’t need any other reason to continue to return to Turin except for bicerin, a layered drink of hot chocolate, espresso, and whipped cream served in a small glass (or, bicerin, in the regional dialect, hence the name). I’ve had this heavenly concoction three times all at the same place—Caffe Al Bicerin, where the bicerin was originally created, has been a Turinese treasure since 1763.

Don’t be fooled by the little spoon that accompanies the bicerin. “Do not stir,” the servers will tell you. The bicerin is meant to be sipped with the layers all coming together on your palate, not by mixing them in the glass. The little spoon is for finishing off the cream and the chocolate that remains in the glass when you’ve finished sipping (at least that’s the assumption I will operate under since I will never, ever leave melted chocolate sitting on the bottom of a glass).

Take a food tour or cooking class.

The Mercato di Porta Palazzo is the largest open-air market in Europe. Fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, fish, utensils, clothing . . . whatever you need, you will find it here. I love visiting local markets because they do not cater to tourists, so it’s a way for me to soak in an authentic slice of everyday Italian life.

The market was the starting point for the Flavors of Turin food tour with local chef Matteo Cambuli. Matteo’s passion for high-quality ingredients was showcased as we wandered through the market sampling cured meats, cheeses, fruit, and even a classic dish from the Piedmont region—vitello tonnato, veal with tuna sauce. I was skeptical that this combination could be enjoyable, but “when in Torino…”

After eating our way around the market, Matteo took us to a beautiful historic bar for coffee and a shop specializing in local cheese and zabaglione, a custard made with wine (usually Marsala). Mio Dio, my world will never be the same! For the next few weeks in Italy, anytime anything was offered with zabaglione, I ordered it, from zabaglione gelato in Parma to a hazelnut cake with zabaglione in Brisighella.

We finished the tour with a vermouth and chocolate tasting at a beautiful cocktail bar that doubles as a shop. I accompanied Matteo back to the market since I had some shopping to do, and he needed to grab ingredients for his cooking class that evening. With very little convincing, I decided to join him for that experience as well.

I took the tram to Matteo’s apartment outside of the city center. There, I joined him and a German couple to make fresh pasta and sauce for amatriciana, a zucchini dip with fresh herbs for a starter, and tiramisu for dessert. Matteo’s mother, wife, and baby daughter joined us for dinner. This will remain one of the highlights of my time in Italy.

If you are invited to or can sign up for a meal in a local’s home, do it! I find it to be one of the best ways to experience Italian life and the values of family, food, and fun.

Photo courtesy of Matteo Cambuli

Buy chocolate.

In the 1550s the Duke of Savoy introduced chocolate to Turin thanks to his connection to Spain, serving in the Spanish army and marrying the King of Spain’s daughter. At the time, the Spanish were the only Europeans with access to cacao from their colonization of the New World. In 1678, the first chocolate shop opened in Turin. The Turinese developed methods for turning cacoa into a paste by mixing it with vanilla, sugar, and water and forming it into bars and other chocolate delights.

During the Napoleonic era when the cost of cocoa beans was high, Turin’s chocolatiers got creative. Hazelnuts were abundant in the Langhe area of Piedmont, so they began to blend chocolate with hazelnuts into a paste known as gianduja. It gained popularity, and today, to be considered gianduja, the confection must contain at least 30% of hazelnuts.

There are many chocolatiers in Turin, so why not try a few? I recommend Caffarel, Guido Gobino, and Peyrano.

There are so many things to do in Turin that I have not mentioned—historical sites, museums, parks, and the list goes on depending on your interests. You may also consider using Turin as a base for exploring Piedmont’s wine region and making day trips to towns like Alba, Asti, and Barolo. If you’ve been, please share with me your tips for Turin and the surrounding area, since I know I will return!

5 Things to Do in Cinque Terre

There’s a reason that we turiste flock to Cinque Terre—the famous five villages hugging the steep hills of the Italian Riviera. If you’ve made your way to Italy and you’re within a few hours of Cinque Terre, you have to see it for yourself. You’re not in Italy to experience FOMO, right? I met several fellow travelers who were in Cinque Terre on a day trip. Please don’t do it. You are going to miss the magic. I promise you don’t get the true “feel” of a place unless you’ve been there for sunset, sunrise, and the hours in between.

First, some logistics.

Getting to Cinque Terre

I cannot imagine having a car while visiting Cinque Terre, and as a solo traveler, I prefer not to rent a car unless I must. If you drive, do your research and double-check your accommodation’s parking situation. The five villages are connected by train, boats, and hiking trails, so you have options for getting around once you arrive. By train, you can reach the Cinque Terre villages from major cities via the Genoa-La Spezia line.

If you only have a couple of days in Cinque Terre and want to hop around from village to village, the Cinque Terre Express train connects the five villages (from north to south: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore) along with Levanto to the north and La Spezia to the south. There is helpful information about Cinque Terre transportation here. Keep in mind that the Cinque Terre Express runs during the “season,” generally March to November, so check the schedule when planning your trip.

Where to Stay When Visiting Cinque Terre

I chose to stay in Levanto, a lovely town with a beautiful beach, just one train stop north of Monterosso. It was quiet at night and not as crowded as some of the Cinque Terre villages. It is on the Cinque Terre Express line, so it was easy to get to and from the five villages. Levanto also is part of the Framura-Levanto bike and walking path, which I highly recommend for exploring towns and beaches north of the Cinque Terre.

If you’re looking for a resource on stays within Cinque Terre, Chrissy at Travel Passionate lists the pros of cons of staying in each village and offers accommodation recommendations.

A Note on Luggage

Pack light! Most of the villages are steep, so you will be climbing with your stuff. You may have tight train connections and will most definitely have to go up and down stairs. Also, don’t expect taxis to be waiting at the station to take you to your accommodation. Some parts of the villages can only be reached on foot anyway, so a taxi would not even be able to take you directly to your hotel or guesthouse.

I had to learn this the hard way. I packed a 26-inch piece of luggage plus a backpack for my six-week trip, and I was cursing myself when I had to walk from the Levanto train station to the hotel (and Levanto is flat!).

Here’s my tip: If you are taking a longer trip and/or have a lot of stuff, pack just what you need for your time in Cinque Terre, leave the rest in your main piece of luggage (with a lock), and pay to store that larger piece at one of the main train stations on the way to Cinque Terre, like La Spezia, Florence, or Genoa. You can thank me later!

Onto the fun stuff . . . what to do in Cinque Terre.

You will see that one of my tips for traveling Italy is to not try to cram too many things into one day. You can return to the Cinque Terre 50 times and not run out of things to do, so there’s no way you’re going to see everything with just a few days.

5 Things to Do in Cinque Terre

Bachyard

This is one of my favorite travel experiences ever. Anywhere. If you have the chance, book it! Emanuele, a passionate pianist, playwright, and farmer hosts guests at his property in the Cinque Terre National Park. While you drink, eat, and find yourself dumbstruck by the sunset, Emanuele plays Bach. Forget fighting the crowds in Vernazza or Riomaggiore to watch the sun go down. Aptly named Tramonti (“sunsets” in Italian), Emanuele’s farm is the place to be.

On my first night in Cinque Terre, I took the train from Levanto to Riomaggiore and climbed the hill to the parking lot to meet the driver for the 20-minute uphill drive to Tramonti. Emanuele met us at the end of the driveway and gave us a tour of the property. His passion for the land and its history is palpable. We toured his young vineyard and learned about the challenges and rewards of growing grapes in Cinque Terre’s difficult terrain.

And as he began to play Bach from the cozy piano room in his farmhouse, we sipped on Cinque Terre wine and nibbled on local cheese and meats while watching the sunset over the sea. As it got dark, Emanuele’s colleagues served us dinner, dessert, and his homemade lemon liqueurs.  

I felt like I had been transported to another world that evening. The views, the dinner, the music—Emanuele has organized an experience like no other.

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Hike the Stairway to Wine Heaven

There are incredible hiking trails in Cinque Terre, and many of us likely find ourselves on the most popular (read: crowded), like the Azure Trail (Blue Trail) from Monterosso to Vernazza, or vice versa. I started this hike on a whim one morning around 11 AM. I wish I had started earlier since I was in direct sunlight for most of the hike. Some websites label this trail as “easy,” but I would say it’s “moderate” if you consider the steps and inclines/declines.

Don’t get me wrong--the views from the Azure Trail are beautiful, but the views are incredible everywhere in Cinque Terre, so why not opt for a more off-the-beaten-path experience?

The next morning, I met up with Erica and a small group in Manarola a little before 9:00. We took a walk around the quiet village toward the start of the hike to Volastra. When Erica says this hike is “straight uphill,” she is not exaggerating. So, make sure you are confident in your fitness level before signing up. Erica did take breaks to tell stories as we climbed through terraced vineyards and olive groves and allowed us to enjoy the views, which are unbeatable.

Upon arriving in Volastra, we visited the cellar of a local winemaker, Capellini, where Erica shared information with us about the wine production. From there, we walked to Cantina Capellini, located in the terraced vineyard with views straight down to the sea.

Other tourists tried to enter the vineyard to join us, but Erica had to turn them away. I would have been jealous of us too!

After enjoying wine and focaccia, the group decided to continue on the trail to Corniglia on our own. I went to Alberto Gelateria for their lemon basil gelato made from basil that they grow and then took the train back to Levanto for some beach time.

Sunset E-Bike Tour

Since I don’t rent a car often when traveling solo, taking bike tours gives me the chance to see a place by road (or trail). I started my Cinque Terre sunset bike tour in Levanto, a short walk from my hotel. We climbed the hills outside of town to Legnaro, then Colla di Gritta before making our way down to Monterosso. I will say it again—all of the views in Cinque Terre are incredible. The hills, the vineyard, the sea. Cinque Terre is a feast for the eyes.

I took this tour after hiking from Monterosso to Vernazza earlier in the day. I was tired from hiking in the heat, so thank goodness for an e-bike! I encourage you to try an e-bike tour if you never have. All you need to do is pedal, and the motor does the rest. It feels like cheating!

 We took a half-hour break in Monterosso, enough time to walk along the pier and grab a gelato. We took a different route back to Levanto, taking in sunset views along the way.

Go to the Beach

Cinque Terre beaches and the Ligurian Sea are stunning! Take an afternoon off from hiking and biking and go for a swim. Nadine of Le Long Weekend has a roundup of the best beaches in Cinque Terre. I opted for the beach in Levanto.

I also walked the beach in Bonassola, a town just north of Levanto. I went there on foot using the Maremonti trail that connects Levanto to Framura. From the Levanto promenade facing the sea, look to your right, and you will see a tunnel. Start walking that way to connect to the trail, which was once a railway. In the 1970s when the new rail line was created, the railway was converted to a cycling and walking path along the coast through the train tunnels.

Bring a towel and a bathing suit with you if you are going to bike or walk the trail. As you pop out of the tunnels, the sea may be calling you to take a dip!

I did not walk all the way to Framura. If I had spent another day in the area, I would have rented a bike and gone there for the beach, which I hear is beautiful. I did walk to the beach in Bonassola and stayed for dinner, then took the train back to Levanto since I did not want to walk back in the dark.

Eat, Eat, Eat!

Some of the best dishes I’ve had in Italy have been in Liguria. While these restaurants are not in Cinque Terre, they are so close and were excellent, so I have to recommend them. I may go back to Levanto just to have the stuffed mussels at Osteria Tumelin. I can still taste them when I conjure the memory.

I had a wonderful antipasto of assorted fish carpaccio at Antico Trattoria Centro in Levanto, along with squid ink pasta and frutti di mare.

In Bonassola at Si Va, I had a lovely grilled fish of the day. I have to admit, though, I was eyeing the fritto misto at the table next to me the whole time! I ended the evening with Schiacchertra, a local dessert wine, and cantucci (almond biscotti).

Any amount of time spent in Cinque Terre will be rewarding, but I encourage you to plan your time wisely and prioritize your activities. You may be tempted to do too much and lose out on soaking in all the goodness that makes this place so special.