My Favorite Things to Do in Turin

I almost hate to post about Turin (Torino, en italiano). I feel like it’s one of Italy’s best-kept secrets, and I kind of want to have it for myself. It wasn’t part of my original plan to visit Turin, but when a storm forced me to cancel my plan to visit the island of Elba at the last minute, I looked at the departures board at Roma Termini and saw that a train would be leaving for Turin in 15 minutes. One of my dearest friends worked for NBC during the 2006 Olympics in Turin, and I knew that the city was famous for chocolate, which was enough of a selling point for me to take the 4.5-hour fast train.

There’s more to know about Turin than the fact that you must absolutely indulge in chocolate in every form possible while you are there. Its history dates to the third century BCE when it was founded by Celtics who called in Taurasia. It was a major trading center for the Romans, was taken over by several rulers in the Middle Ages, and the House of Savory made Turin its capital in the 14th century.

 In 1861 Turin became the first capital of the newly united Italy, before the capital was moved to Florence in 1865 and Rome in 1870. Turin is a thriving industrial city—home to Fiat and Lavazza—and is renowned for its architecture, art, and food, as well as the famous Shroud of Turin, which is not usually visible.

I arrived in Turin on a sunny, cool early fall day, and it was love at first sight. From the taxi, I had a view of the Po River on my right and Piazza Vittorio Veneto on my left, and my jaw dropped. I was itching to drop my luggage off at the apartment and start walking. I have now visited Turin twice, and I just can’t get enough of it.

Here are my favorite things to incorporate into your time in Turin:

Take in the views.

Turin is a gorgeous city with a view of the Alps in the distance. Just a 10-minute walk from Piazza Vittorio Veneto, across the Po River, is the Monte dei Cappuccini, which provides one of the best viewpoints. I went at sunset on a clear day, and the mountains were visible. Wear comfortable shoes, as you will walk up a steep paved road to get to the outlook in front of the Chiesa di Santa Maria. You will be captivated by the views of Turin, but take a few minutes to go inside the church as well.

If you are planning to go in the evening, I recommend that you arrive early so that you have time to see the church and claim a spot along the wall to take in the view as the sun sets and the different shades of light give the city a different glow as time goes on.

From the Monte dei Cappuccini you have a view of Turin that includes the iconic Mole Antonelliana. The monument, completed in 1889, is easily Turin’s most recognizable building. You can buy tickets to go to the top of the monument for 360-degree views of the city. From there, you will see Monte dei Cappuccini and Chiesa di Santa Maria. Mole Antonelliana also houses the National Cinema Museum, which is worth a visit.

View of Turin from Monte dei Cappuccini

If you have time for only one viewpoint, though, I recommend going to the Monte dei Cappuccini so that your view of Turin includes the Mole Antonelliana.

Visit the Egyptian Museum.

Turin’s Egyptian Museum is home to the world’s largest collection of Egyptian artifacts, second only to the museum by the same name in Cairo. The Savoy dynasty is responsible for the strong link between Turin and Egypt, having acquired an impressive collection of artifacts and remaining committed to preserving and sharing the culture of ancient Egypt. From human and animal mummies to papyrus scrolls, jewelry, and everyday household items, the museum houses over 4,000 years’ worth of history.

I was particularly enthralled with the Papyrus of Iuefankh, which measures over 60 feet long!  The papyrus was found in the tomb of Iuefankh and is an example of the types of guides to the afterlife that were included in the tombs of the deceased and provided spells, prayers, and formulas to help them navigate the afterlife.

 Allow at least two hours for your visit. This website has helpful tips on visiting the museum.

Indulge in a bicerin.

I don’t need any other reason to continue to return to Turin except for bicerin, a layered drink of hot chocolate, espresso, and whipped cream served in a small glass (or, bicerin, in the regional dialect, hence the name). I’ve had this heavenly concoction three times all at the same place—Caffe Al Bicerin, where the bicerin was originally created, has been a Turinese treasure since 1763.

Don’t be fooled by the little spoon that accompanies the bicerin. “Do not stir,” the servers will tell you. The bicerin is meant to be sipped with the layers all coming together on your palate, not by mixing them in the glass. The little spoon is for finishing off the cream and the chocolate that remains in the glass when you’ve finished sipping (at least that’s the assumption I will operate under since I will never, ever leave melted chocolate sitting on the bottom of a glass).

Take a food tour or cooking class.

The Mercato di Porta Palazzo is the largest open-air market in Europe. Fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, fish, utensils, clothing . . . whatever you need, you will find it here. I love visiting local markets because they do not cater to tourists, so it’s a way for me to soak in an authentic slice of everyday Italian life.

The market was the starting point for the Flavors of Turin food tour with local chef Matteo Cambuli. Matteo’s passion for high-quality ingredients was showcased as we wandered through the market sampling cured meats, cheeses, fruit, and even a classic dish from the Piedmont region—vitello tonnato, veal with tuna sauce. I was skeptical that this combination could be enjoyable, but “when in Torino…”

After eating our way around the market, Matteo took us to a beautiful historic bar for coffee and a shop specializing in local cheese and zabaglione, a custard made with wine (usually Marsala). Mio Dio, my world will never be the same! For the next few weeks in Italy, anytime anything was offered with zabaglione, I ordered it, from zabaglione gelato in Parma to a hazelnut cake with zabaglione in Brisighella.

We finished the tour with a vermouth and chocolate tasting at a beautiful cocktail bar that doubles as a shop. I accompanied Matteo back to the market since I had some shopping to do, and he needed to grab ingredients for his cooking class that evening. With very little convincing, I decided to join him for that experience as well.

I took the tram to Matteo’s apartment outside of the city center. There, I joined him and a German couple to make fresh pasta and sauce for amatriciana, a zucchini dip with fresh herbs for a starter, and tiramisu for dessert. Matteo’s mother, wife, and baby daughter joined us for dinner. This will remain one of the highlights of my time in Italy.

If you are invited to or can sign up for a meal in a local’s home, do it! I find it to be one of the best ways to experience Italian life and the values of family, food, and fun.

Photo courtesy of Matteo Cambuli

Buy chocolate.

In the 1550s the Duke of Savoy introduced chocolate to Turin thanks to his connection to Spain, serving in the Spanish army and marrying the King of Spain’s daughter. At the time, the Spanish were the only Europeans with access to cacao from their colonization of the New World. In 1678, the first chocolate shop opened in Turin. The Turinese developed methods for turning cacoa into a paste by mixing it with vanilla, sugar, and water and forming it into bars and other chocolate delights.

During the Napoleonic era when the cost of cocoa beans was high, Turin’s chocolatiers got creative. Hazelnuts were abundant in the Langhe area of Piedmont, so they began to blend chocolate with hazelnuts into a paste known as gianduja. It gained popularity, and today, to be considered gianduja, the confection must contain at least 30% of hazelnuts.

There are many chocolatiers in Turin, so why not try a few? I recommend Caffarel, Guido Gobino, and Peyrano.

There are so many things to do in Turin that I have not mentioned—historical sites, museums, parks, and the list goes on depending on your interests. You may also consider using Turin as a base for exploring Piedmont’s wine region and making day trips to towns like Alba, Asti, and Barolo. If you’ve been, please share with me your tips for Turin and the surrounding area, since I know I will return!