48 Hours in Lucca
Just like Turin, Lucca was not part of my original itinerary. When I planned my six-week trip, I left some days unplanned so I can spend a few days wherever I feel like going in the moment. Leaving Cinque Terre, on my way to Florence at the end of September, I decided to spend 48 hours in Lucca.
Lucca is famous for the well-preserved walls that encircle the old city. You can walk or bike the ramparts, taking in the city from above. It takes about half an hour to bike the tree-lined path on the walls, and there are several bike rental companies and guided tours to choose from. There seems to always be plenty going on in Lucca. On the weekend I was there, the Lucca Film Festival was in full swing, as was the Lucca Biennale Cartasia (LUBICA) to celebrate paper art.
I arrived around 11 AM, a few hours before I was allowed to check into my apartment. I used Radical Storage to find somewhere to drop off my luggage so that I could explore the town for a few hours. Just across the street from the train station was the tourist information office and bike rental shop that also offered luggage storage. I decided not to rent a bike, but this may be a good option for you if you find yourself in a similar position.
Walking the walls that surround Lucca
I like to spend the first couple of hours in a new place just walking with no agenda to get my bearings. It wasn’t long before I arrived at Piazza dell’Anfiteatro. It’s an elliptical-shaped plaza, due to its being built over the ruins of a second-century Roman amphitheater, surrounded by yellow-hued buildings with green shutters. Umbrella-shaded tables line the perimeter of the piazza. I opted for lunch al fresco at L’Angolo Tondo. The braised beef cheek special and glass of local red wine was the first of several delightful meals in Lucca.
Guinigi Tower
After settling in at the apartment, I went back to the old town to visit Guinigi Tower just before sunset. At one time, there were over 100 towers in Lucca, but Guinigi Tower is one of two that remain (the other is the Clock Tower, Torre delle Ore). The Guinigi Tower was commissioned in the 14th century by the Guinigi family as part of its residence and includes a hanging garden of holm oaks. The visit to the garden and the views are worth every one of the 230 steps you climb to reach the top.
I was shocked at how small the rooftop is. I was there with about 10 other visitors at the same time. If more of us had been there, it probably would have felt too crowded. I lingered for close to an hour, taking in the views of the city below with its churches, bell towers, and red roofs and, in the distance, the lush hills and mountains.
Piazza dell’Anfiteatro
It was time for aperitivo, so I returned to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, which is particularly magical at sunset when the string lights come on and the piazza is bathed in golden light. Watch the video with the sound on and tell me you’re not tempted to book a plane ticket to Italy right now!
I sat in the garden at nearby Canuleia for dinner. I had the pumpkin and sausage risotto with taleggio and toasted hazelnuts, which continues to stand out as one of my most memorable meals in Italy to date. I had dinner on the early side and was able to get a table with no problem (this is before I learned my lesson about making reservations) since I wanted to be done by 9 PM to attend a concert.
Concert
I think concerts make for a great solo activity, especially in more intimate venues like the one I found in Lucca. The Istituto Musicale Luigi Boccherini hosted a free concert at the Auditorium Del Suffragio featuring double bassists Andrés Martín and Gabriele Ragghianti with Arianna Tarantino on piano. After a long day on the go, it was lovely to unwind and be entertained without having to interact. It forces me into presence. There’s no talking, and it would be disruptive to the other guests if I were scrolling on my phone. In a way, these concerts in a historic venue almost feel like stepping back in time.
The next day began with a cappuccino and the best pastry I’ve ever had. I almost hesitate to say that because I’ve even so many pastries, could I really claim that this one is the best? I think so. I am a sucker for a cornetto with pistachio cream, but the chocolate cream cornetto at Pasticceria Dianda near Lucca’s Botanical Garden was out of this world. I have yet to have another that compares (but it’s been fun trying!).
Botanical Garden
It was a drizzly morning and walking through the arboretum of the Botanical Garden was quite romantic. Established in 1820, the impressive garden, which includes a pond and peat bog, native flora from the nearby mountains, and a collection of camellias and rhododendrons, is in the city center and borders the historic walls. The greenhouse provided shelter when the rain started to pour.
The gardens were not crowded, and it was not necessary to purchase a ticket in advance. There is a small entrance fee for non-residents.
Art
Leaving the Botanical Garden, I made my way to Centro Studi d’Arte Lorenzo Pacini, a non-profit organization with a mission to promote the arts in Lucca and beyond. A painting by Armenian-born Ani Asoyan caught my eye in the window the day before, and I returned to purchase it (along with another one of her pieces).
For lunch, it was back to Piazza dell’Anfiteatro for papparadelle con cinghiale (wild boar) at Pizzicheria La Grotta, which has been there since 1865. Take away some of the salumi, which is made in-house.
Wander
Lucca is such a picturesque town. I can tell when a place has spoken to my heart based on how many photos I take of nothing in particular. I have hundreds of photos from my 48 hours in Lucca.
I would wander through the streets and then pop out into a piazza, several of which had incredible paper sculptures on display thanks to LUBICA, which I didn’t have on my radar while I was there but learned about after the fact. I’m sad that I didn’t realize there were more sculptures to enjoy or I would have sought them out, but I don’t think it’s any coincidence that I saw the ones that really spoke to me—messages about trust and stripping away the barriers to starting over as our truest selves.
In Lucca, I was falling in love with Italy and also with my new life, the one that I hadn’t planned or imagined but one that I was getting excited about.